‣ Happy New Year, and welcome back to my blog! I hope you had a wonderful holiday season and that you are safe, happy, and healthy. If you know me, you know that Hawai‘i is my favorite place to visit. I usually go to the same place every time because my grandparents live there, but this year, I was lucky enough to make a quick stop on the island of Hawai‘i (aka the “Big Island”) before returning home.
Today, I’ll be sharing what I think are the top five must-see/must-do things on the Big Island. This is by no means an exhaustive list—we spent less than three days there, so there are so many beautiful beaches, parks, and hikes that I didn’t get to see or do—but I hope that it gives you an idea of some of the highlights!
1. Visit Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park
Located southwest of Hilo, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is home to Kīlauea, an active shield volcano that is one of the most active on Earth, and Mauna Loa, the planet’s most massive mountain. The park represents over 70 million years of volcanism, migration, and evolution, and it has more than 150 miles of trails.
For a private vehicle, the cost is $30; it costs $25 per motorcycle and $15 per pedestrian or bicycle. The pass is valid for seven days, and honestly, I wish we had time to go back a couple of times to explore the park more!
We stayed in Hilo and drove about 45 minutes to the park. If you only have one afternoon/evening to spend there (like we did), I would recommend that you:
- Drive past both the Kīlauea Iki Visitor Center and the Kīlauea Iki Trailhead parking lots until you reach the lot directly across from Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube) — the parking spots say that you can only be there for 30 minutes, but from my experience and others’ experiences that I’ve read about, this is not true
- Walk through the lava tube, which should take 10-15 minutes
- Do the Kīlauea Iki hike from there
Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube)
The lava tube is 500 years old and once had a river of lava flowing through it. It’s a really cool spot to check out, and the walk is less than 0.5 miles long—it’s more of a quick photo opportunity, but I’d say it’s worth it! The tube is lit from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; otherwise, you should bring a flashlight.
Kīlauea Iki Trail
The Kīlauea Iki trail is a 3-4 mile loop that takes about 2 hours to complete. The hike is famous because it brings you across the crater floor of a volcano, and you can also see lots of unique vegetation. It’s considered “moderate to challenging” because parts of it are steep and rough. The recommended route is counterclockwise, which leads you through the forest and down a set of rocky steps, but we chose to go clockwise so that we could go up the stairs instead. It’s a matter of personal preference, but we were glad that we went the way we did—going down the steps seemed like it would have been a bit scary. Overall, I thought this hike was a very special experience—it’s not every day that you can walk across a crater floor and even see steam vents spewing warm air.
Make sure you bring water and sunscreen or a hat. While it was overcast when we went, the crater floor has no shade, and I know it can get warm down there!
See a Volcanic Eruption
If you are lucky enough to visit the Big Island while a volcano is erupting, you absolutely must see it! If you are walking/hiking to a public viewing area, you should try to go at night, since that is when it is most visible. I was fortunate enough to see the Kīlauea volcano eruption at the Halema‘uma‘u Crater. We parked at the Devastation Trail parking lot along Crater Rim Drive, then walked one mile on a mostly paved trail to the designated viewing area by Keanakākoʻi Crater. It was crowded, and we almost did not get a parking spot—but the view was stunning.
You can check the National Park website for updates on volcanic activity so you know if there is an eruption happening while you are there!
2. Watch the Sunset at Maunakea
Maunakea, a dormant shield volcano, is a wahi pana, or a sacred and storied place in Hawaiian tradition. Mauna Kea is a more general term meaning “white mountain,” but Maunakea is the name used by the University of Hawai‘i Hilo School of Hawaiian Language. Its summit rises 13,796 feet above sea level, and this is where the observatories are located. If you plan to go all the way up to the summit, you want a 4-wheel drive vehicle, should check in with the Visitor Information Center, and should be in good health because altitude sickness is a “high possibility,” according to the website. You can also book your visit through a tour company, but note that these tours are often seven to eight hours long.
Because we did not have that much time, we instead decided to drive up to the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Center, which is located at an altitude of 9,200 feet. You do not need a special vehicle to drive up there, but you should make sure you have a full tank of gas because the closest stations are about 35 miles away from any side.
Either way, make sure that you dress warmly! When I went in early January, I wore leggings, two long-sleeve shirts, a sweatshirt, a rain jacket, and gloves—and I was still cold. Granted, it was rainy and overcast when we were there, but be prepared for weather completely unlike what you imagine Hawaiian weather to be. I recommend calling the visitor center to check the weather and visibility conditions, then going a bit before sunset. The sunset that I saw was breathtaking. We did not stay to stargaze as we had a bit of car trouble, but the altitude and lack of light pollution make it a wonderful place to see the stars as well.
If you visit Maunakea, you should be mindful of the history of resistance against the construction of telescopes from Native Hawaiian and Indigenous peoples. You can read more about it here. I think that it is always important to be respectful and informed when we travel.
3. Shop at the Hilo Farmers Market
If you like tropical fruit, you have to go to the Hilo Farmers Market! It is open every day. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the “Big Market Days,” it is open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.; on other days, it is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. The market has hundreds of vendors selling everything from rambutan, papaya, and kale to tamales, beads, t-shirts, and jewelry. We went to the market on our last day, but if you can, I recommend going toward the beginning of your trip so you have more time to enjoy your purchases. (Remember that you can’t bring fresh produce from Hawai‘i to the U.S. Mainland!).
I also walked to Papa‘a Paloa Bakery, just a few minutes away, after seeing glowing reviews about the bakery online. I got a mini loaf of sourdough poi bread and an accidentally-vegan cinnamon roll. When I return to Hilo, I will definitely be going back!
4. Look for Petroglyphs
Known as kii pohaku in Hawaiian, petroglyphs are lava rock carvings of humans, animals, canoes, and other patterns. The exact meanings are unknown, but they may have commemorated events or travels, or identified ancestral lineages. You can see the Pu‘uloa Petroglpyhs in Hawa‘i Volcanoes National Park, and there are other fields located around the island, including at the Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (Kailua-Kona), Puako Petroglyph Park (Waimea), and Waikōloa Petroglpyh Reserve (Waikōloa Village). We walked through the Waikōloa Petroglpyh Reserve, located near Kings’ Shops and a golf course in Waikōloa. It was really cool to see history preserved right before our eyes!
5. Cool Off with Shave Ice
If go to Hawai‘i and don’t have shave ice, did you even really visit? Shave ice is one of my favorite treats, and luckily, it’s typically vegan and allergy-friendly. We went to Original Big Island Shave Ice (in Waikōloa) after exploring the nearby Waikōloa Petroglyph Reserve, and we thought it was some of the best shave ice we’d had. (This is a glowing endorsement, considering the many places we’ve tried around the islands!). The serving sizes are generous, the flavors are delicious, and the toppings are unique. I had a “small” (it was actually very large) shave ice with coconut, lilikoi, and raspberry flavors topped with ube (purple sweet potato). You can get ice cream inside if you’re not dairy-free, and the toppings range from mochi to adzuki beans to boba to whipped cream. We had to wait in line to get in, and they have an efficient “one way only” system to manage crowds and encourage social distancing. We ate outside in the Kings’ Shops area after.
Other popular shave ice spots that we unfortunately did not get to try include Kula Shave Ice (Hilo), Scandinavian Shave Ice (Kailua-Kona), and Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (Kailua-Kona). We’ve tried Ululani’s locations in Maui, and it’s really good shave ice—but I think I liked Original Big Island Shave Ice even more!
Final Thoughts
I really enjoyed my first trip to the Big Island, and I hope I can go back soon! In particular, I would love to explore Hilo more. There are so many beautiful parks, hikes, and beaches on that side of the island. I also want to go back to Hawai‘i Volanoes National Park and do more hikes there. In general, Hilo is known for being more laid-back and outdoorsy, with a “small beach town” vibe, but it is much rainier. Kailua-Kona is more touristy because there are a lot of resorts there. Choosing which to visit and/or spend more time in truly depends on what kind of vacation you are looking for.
Thank you so much for reading, and I hope your year is off to a great start. Make sure to follow me on Instagram for more photos and tips. See you soon!
